Barolo is not for those seeking instant gratification. That wine made from the nebbiolo grape, like some of the old-line winemakers who produce it in the region, has a reputation for surliness—but unlike those particular Piemontese, the notoriously tannic wine mellows with age. However, Italy’s DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita), in its seemingly boundless appetite for arcane regulation, allows for nebbiolo grapes grown in the Barolo region not only to be vinified into the famed eponymous …