Ah, to savor the fruits of the best French vintners. To revel in the perfection poured from a bottle of Château Latour 1961, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti La Tache 1978, or Château Lafite 1959. If you should come into possession of one of these (or one of many other) rare, sought-after vintages, you know you’re in for a treat. There may be no greater indulgence than the languid appreciation of a lauded French vintage from decades past, but that doesn’t mean you should ignore the contemporary releases out of Bord…