A Connoisseur’s Guide to French Cheese

Cheese is as central to French cultural pride as is the liquid bounty from the vineyards. With more than 1,000 varieties, French fromage crosses all socioeconomic divides, from broke park-bench lovers to high-life-loving degustation-menu gourmands. Part of the charm of real French cheese is the use of raw, unpasteurized milk (pasteurization carpet-bombs flavors, yielding an innocuous yet safe product). But the United States has banned any raw-milk cheese that hasn’t been aged at least 60 days, so to try those,…

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