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Lee Wolen much prefers the heat of the kitchen to a dining room filled with strangers. So when the chef and partner at Boka in Chicago stepped before a crowd of 54 hungry judges at the fourth annual Robb Report Culinary Masters Competition, he was clearly nervous.
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The first course in his competition dinner was being placed before them: a plate of roasted fermented broccoli arranged over dabs of thick Greek yogurt, smoked pork loin, and P…