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Growing up in the beachside community of Dana Point, Calif., Justin Devillier spent blithe summers on the Pacific fishing for yellowtail and albacore; in the fall and winter he would dive for lobsters just steps from his front door. Today, Devillier’s love of the catch has developed into a lifelong exploration of preparing it—particularly in the kitchens of New Orleans. His first establishment, La Petite Grocery, at a century-old Creole cottage in the city’s charming G…